Victorian Mourning Jewellery: The Darker Side of Jewellery History
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Long before Halloween became a night of costumes, carved pumpkins and sweets, the Victorians had a fascination with the macabre. From ghost stories and gothic literature, to elaborate mourning rituals, the Victorian era had a particularly intriguing relationship with death, remembrance and the afterlife.
One of the most beautiful expressions of this fascination was jewellery. Far more than just decoration, certain pieces became deeply personal keepsakes, allowing people to carry the memory of someone they loved wherever they went.
This spooky season, I'm exploring the darker side of jewellery history. From intricate mourning rings, to mysterious black jet, and sentimental lockets that tell stories of love, loss and remembrance.
JEWELLERY WITH A DEEPER MEANING
During the Victorian era, mourning was an important part of social life, with customs influencing everything from clothing to the jewellery people wore. Following the death of a loved one, jewellery could become a tangible reminder of someone who was no longer there.
Mourning rings, lockets and brooches were often chosen to commemorate a family member, partner or close friend. Some pieces were engraved with names, initials or dates, while others incorporated symbolic motifs such as weeping willows, urns and forget-me-nots.
Certain sentimental pieces even contained a lock of the deceased person's hair, carefully woven into intricate designs, or preserved behind glass in a locket. Although these objects may seem unusual to us today, they offered a deeply personal way to keep loved ones close.
It’s a fascinating reminder that jewellery has always been about more than appearance. Sometimes, its greatest value lies in the memories it holds.
THE BEAUTY OF BLACK JET
Few materials are as closely associated with Victorian mourning jewellery as jet.
Jet is a naturally occurring fossilised wood that can be polished to create a deep, velvety black finish. Lightweight and well suited to carving, it became particularly fashionable for mourning jewellery during the nineteenth century. You may have heard specifically of Whitby Jet; although jet exists globally, it is thought that the high-quality material found along the North Yorkshire coast of England near Whitby is considered some of the finest in the world!
Its popularity grew during the reign of Queen Victoria, after the death of her beloved Prince Albert in 1861. The Queen's prolonged mourning helped reinforce the fashion for black mourning dress and accessories, although mourning jewellery and its traditions existed long before this period.
Jet was used to create everything from elaborate brooches and necklaces to bracelets, earrings and decorative pendants. Its dark, understated appearance made it appropriate for mourning, while its versatility allowed jewellers to produce remarkably detailed designs.
Other materials, including black glass, vulcanite and onyx, were also used in dark jewellery during the Victorian era. While these materials can sometimes look similar, they each have their own characteristics and history.
Today, antique and vintage pieces in these dark materials continue to appeal to collectors who appreciate their craftsmanship, distinctive appearance and connection to the past, as well as those who are drawn to the deeply gothic, romantic aesthetic.
LOCKETS, CAMEOS, AND SENTIMENTAL KEEPSAKES
Not all sentimental jewellery was sombre or entirely black. Many pieces combined delicate craftsmanship with deeply personal meaning.
Lockets were particularly cherished because they could conceal a photograph, a tiny handwritten message, or even a lock of hair. Worn close to the heart, they offered a discreet way to keep a treasured memory nearby.
Cameos, with their carefully carved profiles and contrasting layers, also enjoyed enormous popularity during the Victorian period. Although not exclusively associated with mourning, they could be incorporated into sentimental jewellery and passed down through generations.
Other designs carried their own symbolism. Forget-me-nots represented remembrance, while hearts could express love and devotion. Acorns, ivy and other natural motifs could suggest enduring affection, fidelity or the continuity of life.
The meaning of any individual piece depended on its design, context and the person who owned it. This is part of what makes exploring vintage and antique jewellery so rewarding; every object offers a glimpse into the tastes, traditions and emotions of another time.
A FASCINATION WITH THE MACABRE
The Victorians' interest in mourning jewellery was part of a wider fascination with mortality and the supernatural.
Gothic novels, ghost stories, séances and spiritualism all formed part of the cultural landscape of the nineteenth century. Death was not hidden away from everyday life in quite the same way it often is today, and mourning customs could be highly visible and carefully observed.
Jewellery offered a way to express grief whilst preserving a personal connection with the past. The result was a distinctive style that could be sombre, ornate, beautiful, and sometimes unsettling all at once.
It is easy to see why these pieces feel particularly appropriate at Halloween. Their dark materials, intricate details and intimate histories have an atmosphere of mystery that goes far beyond seasonal decoration.
Yet the real stories behind them are often more moving than any ghost story.
GIVING OLD TREASURES A NEW STORY TO SHARE
At Raven & Pearl, I love vintage and pre-loved jewellery because every piece offers something different. Whether it’s a beautifully detailed antique ring, an ornate silver brooch, or a pendant with the charm of another era, older jewellery has a personality that can be difficult to replicate.
Choosing pre-loved jewellery also offers a more considered alternative to buying something brand new. Rather than creating demand for an entirely new piece, giving existing jewellery another life allows its materials, craftsmanship and design to continue being appreciated for years to come.
We may never know the names of everyone who wore these treasures before us, or the occasions they accompanied. But that is part of their appeal. A piece of vintage jewellery can connect different generations, gathering new memories as it passes from one person to another.
Perhaps that is the most enduring kind of magic; something once treasured by someone else, becoming a part of your own story.
DISCOVER THE DARKER SIDE OF VINTAGE JEWELLERY
This spooky season, look beyond the costumes and decorations, and discover the fascinating world of jewellery history.
From dark, dramatic designs to sentimental keepsakes and intricately crafted vintage treasures, there is something captivating about jewellery that has stood the test of time.
After all, the most intriguing pieces are not necessarily the ones that look as though they belong in a ghost story. They are the ones that remind us of the people, places and moments that came before us.
Explore the vintage and pre-loved jewellery collection at Raven & Pearl and find a treasure ready for its next chapter.